These are class notes for the students who took my wholecloth class back in 2015. There are some step by steps along with tips. You'll also come across references to patterns that were handed out to the students. Those aren't included here but you might have some that look similar that you can use.
WHOLECLOTH DESIGN WITH IQ. A class with Helen J. Baczynski. 2015
In this class we’ll design two quilts – a simple placemat, and a small quilt with an on-point center medallion.
When designing a wholecloth quilt, it’s necessary first to make a quilt map, which is a template of blocks where the patterns will be placed. You can create several quilt maps and save them in a quilt map catalog for future use. Their saved size doesn’t matter because that can be changed when you choose one to work on.
Here are three of my saved quilt maps.
1. Creating a map. First we’ll create the map for a placemat – this is very simple, consisting of just one rectangle. My placemats at home measure 16” x 13”.
Design/sew quilt >Start new > Add block > Enter rectangle manually
Enter 16” for the width and 13” for the height > continue
Touch Grid off. This will make the grid appear. Move the block, if necessary, so that it’s centered on the grid. Turn snap on to help. Touch Grid on > finished.
The quilt map is complete so now we’ll save it.
Finished > finished > save quilt/pattern > save the quilt
Give your map the name placemat > enter
Place it in a new catalog named Quilt Maps.
Now we’ll create the map for the small wholecloth, which will look like this when complete.
Back out to the main menu.
Design/Sew Quilt > Start New > Add Block > Enter Rectangle Manually.
Width 12”, enter. Height 12”, enter > Continue.
Turn on the grid and turn on snap.
This block needs to be on point so touch rotate, then touch the keypad and enter 45.
Select Move, grab the center reference point and move it until it snaps to a grid intersection.
Zoom full if you can’t see the whole block.
Notice the width and height measurements. We want these to both be 18” so touch Stretch and select the center reference point as the anchor (this will not move).
Grab the left hand side reference point and drag it until it snaps to a grid intersection, making sure the height and width both say 18”. Finished.
Add Block > Standard Block > Load from Block Catalog.
Select Geometric catalog and select the triangle. Continue.
Move the triangle block by grabbing the reference point at the center of the longest side and moving it until it snaps to the center reference point on one side of the square block.
Touch zoom on, and then zoom full to see the whole image.
If the triangle is too big, touch stretch, anchor the reference point at the center of the long side, and then grab one of the points and move it until it snaps to the corner of the square.
Finished.
Copy Block > touch the triangle, continue.
Rotation. Touch the keypad and enter 90.
Move. Drag the triangle into place. If you grab a reference point, it will automatically snap to another reference point, which will place the block accurately.
Finished > Copy Block > touch the triangle you just placed, continue.
Rotation. Touch the button in the ribbon that reads 1º and tap it until you see 90º, and then tap the right rotating arrow.
Move. Grab the triangle and move it into place. Finished.
Copy Block > touch the triangle, continue. Rotate it 90º, sing the right rotating arrow, and then move it into position. Finished.
Now we’ll add the border blocks. Add Block > Standard Block > Enter Rectangle Manually.
Width 18”, enter. Height 4”, enter. Continue.
Move this border block to the top of the quilt map. Finished.
Copy Block. Touch the border block, continue. Rotate it 90º and move it into place. Repeat those steps twice more to place the remaining two border blocks.
Now we’ll add the cornerstone blocks, which are 4” square.
Add Block > Standard Block > Enter Rectangle Manually > Width 4”, enter. Height 4”, enter. Continue.
Turn zoom on > Zoom full > turn zoom off.
Move the cornerstone block to a corner. Finished.
Repeat Block(s). Touch the cornerstone, continue.
X repeats. Touch the keypad and enter 4. Finished. Modify block > touch one of the cornerstone blocks, continue. Move it into place. Select > touch another cornerstone block, continue. Move it into place.
Select and move the last cornerstone block.
Finished > Finished> Save quilt/Pattern > Save the Quilt.
Name this Medallion quilt and save it into the quilt maps catalog.
Changing the size of a saved quilt map.
Quilt maps can be resized easily, When you want to work on one, start with design/sew quilt > edit/sew existing > then choose the quilt map > continue.
On this page you can change the size. Touch resize quilt and enter the dimensions. To keep the same aspect ratio, you only need to change one dimension and the other will change automatically.
If you want to change your square quilt map, for instance, to a rectangular shape, touch unlock aspect ratio and then change one dimension. The other will not change automatically.
2. Designing the Placemat.
Now we have the maps saved, we can add patterns. First we’ll make this placemat so exit out to the main menu.
Design/Sew Quilt > Edit/Sew Existing > choose placemat from the quilt map catalog. Continue. (This is where the quilt map can be re-sized if necessary.)
Continue. Add/Edit Pattern > Add Pattern > Block Pattern > Use Current Block > Geometric catalog.
Select the square. Continue.
This square needs to be a rectangle so touch width and change it to 10”. Change the height to 13”. Finished.
First we’ll add the center fill. Add Pattern > Block Pattern > Use Current Block > select line from the geometric catalog.
Turn the grid on and change it to a half-inch. Turn snap on.
Rotate the line so that it’s vertical and move it so that it snaps to one of the vertical grid lines.
Finished > Repeat Pattern > touch the vertical line, continue.
Touch X Distance and change it to 0.50, Touch X repeats and enter 20 using the keypad.
Finished > Modify pattern > touch one of the lines at the right, continue. Move it off the placemat – we’ll use it later.
Finished. Now we have to combine all the lines so we can save the pattern.
Combine Patterns. The first pattern will be the rectangle, continue > touch the first line on the left – swap start/end point (why?), continue > continuous stitch line (why?)
Touch the next line – do the start/end need swapping?
Continue in this way until all the lines are combined.
At this point, let’s save the pattern, so exit out until you see Save Quilt/Pattern > Save a Pattern from the Quilt > touch the pattern, continue, choose a name and save it wherever you wish.
Add/Edit Pattern > Modify Pattern > touch the extra line, continue > move it to the left hand space and place it in the center.
Finished.
Add Pattern > Path Pattern > touch the line on the left, continue > search, enter butterfly n roses. Touch the pattern, continue.
See how the pattern is to the left of the line – that’s because the start and end point of that pattern is at one edge. To center the pattern in the space, it’s helpful to move the line so touch Modify Path and move the line to the right hand edge of the space. Finished.
Reduce the number of repeats until the pattern fills the space.
Does the pattern need any modification? If so, select Modify Pattern and change it to your liking. Finished. Copy Pattern > touch the butterfly n roses pattern, continue > move it to the right hand space. Do you want to flip it or adjust its position within that space?
When you like your placemat, touch finished > Delete Pattern > touch the straight line used as a path. Finished > Save Quilt/Pattern > Save the Quilt > Give your placemat a name and save it.
This is a very simple placemat design that can be stitched out multiple times to make a full, matching set.
Any pattern can be placed in the side panels. This one has the Simply Feathered border by Wildflower Quilting in the side panels.
3. Designing the Medallion Quilt.
Starting at the main menu, Design/Sew Quilt > Edit/Sew Existing > Select the Quilt Map catalog and touch the medallion quilt. Continue.
To see the size of this map, touch resize quilt. You’ll see this is quite small. If you want to create a larger quilt, the map can be resized here.
For this class, we’ll keep it as is. Continue > Continue >Add/Edit Pattern >Add Pattern > Block Pattern > Select Block > touch the center on point square, watch for it to turn red. Continue.
Search – enter feather square. If more than one appears in your search catalog, look for the one by Keryn Emmerson. Touch it, continue.
Notice that this pattern has jump stitches.
We need to rotate the pattern. Touch rotation, and then rotate the pattern 45º. Scale – sweep the screen to scale up the pattern until its height and width are both 16”.
Finished > Add Pattern > Block Pattern > Use Current Block > select line from the geometric catalog.
Rotate the line 45º and move it to the upper right. Use the grid and snap to help position it then change the length of the line using stretch. Anchor the center, and then grab one end of the line and move it.
It should look like this. 
Finished > Add Pattern > Path Pattern > touch the line, continue > search, enter pearls. Select the two pearls. Continue. Change repeats to 10. Finished.
Add/Edit Pattern > Copy Pattern > touch the pearls, zooming in if necessary. Continue > Rotate them 90º then move them into place. Finished > Copy Patterns > touch both sets of pearls, continue.
Flip X and move them into place.
Notice how the corner pearls overlap slightly. We’ll leave them that way, but if you prefer them not to overlap, simply change the length of the string by using stretch to anchor the center then grabbing one end to move it. The grid will help you position the string. After the change, an additional single circle will probably be needed to fill the corner space.
Finished > Add Pattern > Block Pattern > Select Block > touch a triangle, continue. Search – enter feather triangle. Choose Feather Triangle 1, continue. Rotate the pattern and move it to the center of the block. Scale the pattern up until it fits the triangle and moving it as necessary. Finished.
Copy Pattern > touch the triangle and move the copy into position. Repeat the process again to place the other feather triangles.
Now we’ll place a border pattern. We’ll create a feather using path pattern.
Add/Edit Pattern >Add pattern > Block Pattern > Select Block, touch a border block, continue > choose line in the geometric catalog.
Move the start point of the line to the center point of the block and use stretch to scale the line to fit half the border block > finished > Add pattern > Path Pattern, touch the line > select feather-1 from the geometric catalog.
Alter the number of repeats until you like the look of the pattern > finished.
Add/Edit Pattern > Add Pattern > Path Pattern > touch the same line, continue > select feather-1 again > flip Y > Finished.
Add/Edit Pattern > Combine Patterns. Touch the top feather, continue - touch the center spine > swap start/end point, continue – touch the bottom feathers (swap star/end point if necessary), continue > Finished.
Copy pattern – touch the pattern, continue > flip X - move the pattern so the two meet at the center.
I think there’s too much space at the center of this border pattern so here’s how to fill it with more feathers.
Finished > Add Pattern > Block Pattern > Select Block – touch the border block, continue > geometric catalog, feather -1 > continue.
Place this pattern over one of the feathers at the center of the border and reduce the scale until it’s exactly the same size. Zoom in for a better view.
Move the pattern into place. Snap the S of the feather to the E of the border pattern. Finished.
Copy pattern – touch the single feather > continue > flip x > move the copy into place. Finished.
Split pattern – zoom in to where the two center feathers cross and touch that point > Split > Delete Pattern – select the part of the pattern you want to delete. It will turn red. Continue > yes.
Touch the desired splitting point on the other feather > split > delete pattern – touch the part you want to delete > continue > yes > combine patterns – touch one of the center feathers and check that the S is at the center spine > continue – touch the other center feather > swap start/end points > continue > finished.
Copy pattern – select the joined center feathers > continue > flip Y – move the copy into place > finished.
Combine patterns – touch the left hand end of the border pattern > continue – select one of the center feathers > continue > continuous stitch line – touch the right hand end of the border > continue – touch the other center feather > continue > continuous stitch line > finished.
The spine will be double stitched – the pattern will start and end at the center.
If you like this pattern, save it now.
Finished > save quilt/pattern > save a pattern from the quilt – touch it > continue – give it a name and place it in a catalog.
Add/Edit Pattern > Modify Pattern > touch the pattern, continue > width, Sweep the screen or tap the minus sign to make the pattern fit the border. Finished.
Copy that border pattern and move the copies into position on each side.
The patterns in the cornerstones are copies of the motif that’s in the center of the feather wreath. We need to split the pattern in order to make the copies.
Split Pattern > touch the green jump stitch so that the center motif is green (left hand picture). Split. Touch the other long jump stitch to separate the side motif from the rest of the pattern (right hand picture). Split. Finished.
Copy the center motif 4 times, placing the copies in the four corners of the border.
The wholecloth is complete and can be saved.
Tips.
To split a pattern with jump stitches or tie offs, simply touch anywhere along the green or blue line and the pattern will split perfectly.
Use the grid to help you split patterns.
Grid snap and stretch make fitting the border patterns easy.
Zoom in to check that all the border repeats touch before combining.
Convert the blocks to patterns to stitch out seam lines or stabilizing lines.
When placing a pattern, think about the throat size of your machine. Will you need to split or divide the pattern in order to sew it out?
Stitching a wholecloth.
Reference marks are very important because there are no seam lines to use as references. Either pre-mark the fabric or stitch the blocks first. Additional basting will help minimize quilt shrinkage. A grid of basting can help both to stabilize the quilt and act as a reference.
Convert the blocks to patterns to stitch out false seam lines. They can be stitched with large basting stitches or soluble thread so they are easy to remove when the quilting is complete if you don’t want the appearance of seam lines.
Use the basted false seam lines as reference points when re-aligning, rather than the stitched motifs or patterns.
Alternatively, you can mark the fabric with reference lines before stitching.
Realigning to only the quilting can cause distortion because the quilting will draw in the fabric. If you mark or stitch a grid, it will draw up as a whole and the relationship between the grid lines will be consistent enabling you to realign to the grid. This is the same as realigning to piecing.
How to convert a block to a pattern for stitching– once the quilt map is complete and saved, select Add/Edit block > Block to Pattern and follow the instructions. Repeat these steps until all the blocks are converted.
You will need at least one block in order to place patterns so do not convert the on point center block. It’s not necessary to convert that to a pattern because when the triangles are stitched, they will create the on-point square.
If you do convert all the blocks to patterns, you can add blocks back by touching Pattern to Block and then
follow the instructions.
Check the size and placement of the patterns and adjust them if necessary. You may have to tweak their size.
Don’t assume you can just stitch everything out without checking that the patterns will be where you want them.
Move you machine over the quilted lines and watch the crosshairs on the screen to see if you need to change a pattern slightly before stitching. This is especially important when you get down to the last border because the quilt will have shrunk somewhat.
Stitching a grid in basting length stitches is a recommended first step because this will stabilize the layers and give you a reference grid for alignment.
Realigning is well worth the few seconds it takes. Do it often and you will get good results. The larger the wholecloth, the more often you need to re-align and adjust.
Here is another quilt that uses the medallion quilt map we saved. See if you can re-create it using the patterns you were given and the tips included here.
Use path pattern to create the central feather and the string of holly leaves surrounding it. The path is a circle.
The grid is Warped Mesh from the Computer Art Catalog. Customize it to your liking.
Use path pattern to create the feathered border and place four of the single holly leaf patterns at the center of each border to fill that space.
This quilt was made up almost entirely of path patterns using the geometric catalog. The central star was created from Fancy Star in Computer Art Catalog. The points were smoothed, then the star was copied and the copy was scaled down and centered on top of the original. The small flower shapes (joined by blue, tie off lines) were made using the Spirograph in Computer Art Catalog. The rays were created using Fan Pattern.
Some saved quilts can be scaled up or down without any alteration, but if you scale a design up, turn on the grid to check the size of the patterns.
Will they look good at that size? Do you need to add more patterns?
Will they need splitting or dividing before you can stitch them out?
